Making Hela: Goddess of Death
This costume was a big challenge! Not only did I need to up my tailoring game, but I had to do extensive research and testing of new materials and methods at practically every step. Here is a very concise look at how I made this suit and helmet. Costume made entirely by Beverly for Epoch Echo Cosworx.
This costume was a HUGE build, so I have broken it down into multiple sections:
- Bodysuit pattern and details
- Making Resin Molds for the silicone pieces
- Making the silicone pieces
- Adhering the silicone pieces to the suit
- Attaching the boots
- Making the helmet base
- Making the helmet horns
- Painting the helmet and horns
I know a lot of you are here for a list of my main materials and links to where you can find them, so here ya go!
- Dragon Skin Silicone (Smooth-On)
- Sil-Poxy (Smooth-On)
- Cast Magic Metallic Green, Pearly Green and Pearly Blue (Smooth-On)
- Silc-Pig silicone tint (Smooth-On)
- Smooth-Cast 300 (Smooth-On)
- Epsilon Pro (Smooth-On)
- UVO black urethane pigment (Smooth-On)
- EVA foam in various thicknesses (TNT Cosplay Supplies)
- Wonderflex (CosplaySupplies.com)
- Easy Weed Heat Transfer Vinyl (Siser)
Bodysuit pattern and details:
Materials used: Duct tape, Tamiya tape, sharpie, four way stretch fabric, HTV
Equipment used: Mannequin, Adobe Illustrator, Cricut Air Explore, Iron
Video tutorial: Learn some advanced duct tape dummy techniques!
- First, I made a duct tape dummy of myself with the help of my husband, and stuck it on a mannequin.
- Then I covered that with plastic wrap and another layer of duct tape and began patterning out the design using sharpies, and eventually tamiya tape.
- Then I cut the design overlay off the dummy. After I trimmed the patterns, I scanned the pieces into my computer and traced the shapes with Adobe Illustrator.
- Then I printed out the patterns. After cutting out the patterns I positioned them on my dummy to test the positioning of each piece.
- After making adjustments where needed, I edited my master digital pattern and created SVG files for my cricut. Then I used my cricut to cut out the pieces that would be 2mm thick, which was most of them. I used 4mm eva foam for the hips and breast cups.
- I traced the shapes of the pieces on my mock up bodysuit to hide the seams under the details wherever I possibly could.
- I cut the body suit pattern off the dummy, and used the same steps to create a digital pattern I could use for my final material.
- I assembled the mockup and made some adjustments again, creating one final pattern. This time I also made sure the fabric grain was all lined up, and I used a stencil to annotate which direction to use for the heat transfer vinyl overlay.
- Then I cut everything out one more time, and applied the heat transfer vinyl to all of the pieces, one by one. This took an enormous amount of time.
- Then I assembled the suit and made a few more adjustments to the fit. I installed 5 zippers (one in the back, two from the back of my knees to my heels, and two at my wrists.
- I attached the shoulder pieces later in the process once I had all the silicone pieces attached.
Making the resin molds for the silicone pieces:
Materials used: 2mm EVA foam (adhesive backed), 4mm eva foam, foam core, hot glue, Dragon Skin Silicone, silc-pig silicone pigment, mixing cups, silicone thinner
Video: Check out my how-to video tutorial for making resin molds!
- After sanding the edges (yes, I sanded all of the edges), I mounted all of the eva foam pieces to foamcore and built box molds for them all. There are over 90 pieces.
- I applied a very thin layer of tinted Dragon Skin silicone to act as my release agent.
- Then I used Smooth-Cast 300 to create 1-part box molds for all of the pieces.
- After the molds cured, they were all washed with soap and water to remove all residue
Making the silicone pieces:
Materials used: Dragon Skin Silicone, Cast Magic Green, Pearly Green and Pearly Blue, Psycho Paint, Novocs, Black Silc-Pig, silicone thinner
- Once the resin molds were dry I mixed Dragon Skin silicone with measured amounts of Cast Magic Green, Pearly Green and Pearly Blue, making sure to annotate the ratios for duplication later.
- Next, I poured the silicone into the molds, being careful not to overfill the molds. (sorry I don’t have an image of this, as it’s difficult to take pictures while you are mixing and pouring silicone on a timer!)
- After the silicone cured (about 5 hours), I removed each piece from the molds.
- Then I trimmed each piece and painted the edges with Psycho Paint silicone paint tinted with Black Silc-Pig and thinned with Novocs solvent. I hand brushed each edge of each silicone piece with this mixture and allowed it to cure.
Adhering the silicone pieces to the suit:
Materials used: Sil-poxy, fabric pencil, disposable paint brushes, straight pins
Video Tutorial: Check out my How-To video tutorial on how to use Sil-Poxy to attach silicone to fabric!
- First I placed the suit back on the duct tape dummy. Then I placed each silicone piece on the suit and traced the outline with a fabric pencil using the heat transfer vinyl pattern to help with symmetry.
- Next I mixed a very small amount of black silc-pig with a small amount of Sil-Poxy with my disposable brush. Check out this video tutorial about how to use Sil-Poxy!
- After trying many methods of applying the silpoxy, I found that the best and cleanest way for my project was to apply a nice layer on the silicone, as well as a thin layer on the fabric. This makes sure the silicone will evenly adhere to both the silicone and the fabric.
- I used straight pins to keep the silicone pieces in place while it cured.
- Handle in 1 hour, fully cured in 24.
Attaching the boots
Materials used: Sil-poxy, fabric pencil, straight pins, Barge contact cement
- I tacked the edges of the suit down to the boots and tried it on. My friend to helped me indicate where the fabric lined up with the boot seam with a fabric pencil.
- I hemmed along that edge, tucking the zipper under and trimming the excess.
- I then used barge cement to attach the edges of the fabric to the boot.
- Then I added the silicone pieces to the boot area with Sil-poxy
Making the helmet base
Materials used: Duct tape, saran wrap, sharpie, 4mm and 2mm EVA foam from TNT Cosplay Supply, Barge Cement, Wonderflex, pvc pipe and connectors, magnets, Loctite 5 minute and 1 minute epoxy
- First I made a duct tape dummy of my head and transferred that pattern to 4mm eva foam.
- I cut out the foam and glued it together with barge cement
- Then I added a layer of Wonderflex to the back of the helmet to help with supporting the weight of the horns.
- I embedded several pvc pipe pieces into the base using epoxy and worbla.
Making the helmet horns
Materials used: 2mm, 4m eva foam, worbla, pvc pipe and connectors, magnets, Epsilon Pro, UVO colorant, Cast magic Green, Apoxie Sculpt, bondo, Loctite 5 minute and 1 minute epoxy
Equipment used: Adobe Illustrator, Dremel, Belt Sander, sandpaper, heat gun
- I traced the shape of the horns in illustrator and made a template
- Then I traced the shapes out of 4mm and 6mm eva foam from TNT Cosplay Supply
- I cut the core from the largest horns and wrapped it with worbla to help with rigidity.
- Then I removed material from the base of each horn to allow for a pvc pipe piece to be added.
- Next I glued pvc connectors to the back of the helmet, using more eva foam and worbla for support.
- I installed a few magnets to help keep the horns in place.
- Then I layered more eva foam to the ends of the horns and sanded them down to the contour of the helmet.
- It took a week of adjusting and trimming before I was done!
- I permanently attached the topmost horns, and made the rest of them detachable.
- I filled in large gaps and seams with Apoxie Sculpt and sanded it all down.
- Then I heat sealed all of the horns and the helmet with a heat gun
Painting the helmet and horns
Materials used: Epsilon Pro, UVO Black Colorant, Cast Magic Metallic Green
- I used Epsilon Pro to seal the eva foam.
- I applied two layers and then sanded it down.
- The next layer was tinted with Cast Magic Green and black UVO, but it was too green
- Another layer of black was applied, for a total of 4 layers of Epsilon Pro.
- Cure time = 16 hours.