Making Hela: Goddess of Death

This costume was a big challenge! Not only did I need to up my tailoring game, but I had to do extensive research and testing of new materials and methods at practically every step. Here is a very concise look at how I made this suit and helmet. Costume made entirely by Beverly for Epoch Echo Cosworx.

This costume was a HUGE build, so I have broken it down into multiple sections:

  • Bodysuit pattern and details
  • Making Resin Molds for the silicone pieces
  • Making the silicone pieces
  • Adhering the silicone pieces to the suit
  • Attaching the boots
  • Making the helmet base
  • Making the helmet horns
  • Painting the helmet and horns

I know a lot of you are here for a list of my main materials and links to where you can find them, so here ya go!

Bodysuit pattern and details:

Materials used: Duct tape, Tamiya tape, sharpie, four way stretch fabric, HTV
Equipment used: Mannequin, Adobe Illustrator, Cricut Air Explore, Iron
Video tutorial: Learn some advanced duct tape dummy techniques!

  1. First, I made a duct tape dummy of myself with the help of my husband, and stuck it on a mannequin.
  2. Then I covered that with plastic wrap and another layer of duct tape and began patterning out the design using sharpies, and eventually tamiya tape.14
  3. Then I cut the design overlay off the dummy. After I trimmed the patterns, I scanned the pieces into my computer and traced the shapes with Adobe Illustrator.19
  4. Then I printed out the patterns. After cutting out the patterns I positioned them on my dummy to test the positioning of each piece.30
  5. After making adjustments where needed, I edited my master digital pattern and created SVG files for my cricut. Then I used my cricut to cut out the pieces that would be 2mm thick, which was most of them. I used 4mm eva foam for the hips and breast cups.
  6. I traced the shapes of the pieces on my mock up bodysuit to hide the seams under the details wherever I possibly could.
  7. I cut the body suit pattern off the dummy, and used the same steps to create a digital pattern I could use for my final material.
  8. I assembled the mockup and made some adjustments again, creating one final pattern. This time I also made sure the fabric grain was all lined up, and I used a stencil to annotate which direction to use for the heat transfer vinyl overlay.
  9. Then I cut everything out one more time, and applied the heat transfer vinyl to all of the pieces, one by one. This took an enormous amount of time.
  10. Then I assembled the suit and made a few more adjustments to the fit. I installed 5 zippers (one in the back, two from the back of my knees to my heels, and two at my wrists.
  11. I attached the shoulder pieces later in the process once I had all the silicone pieces attached.

Making the resin molds for the silicone pieces:

Materials used: 2mm EVA foam (adhesive backed), 4mm eva foam, foam core, hot glue, Dragon Skin Silicone, silc-pig silicone pigment, mixing cups, silicone thinner
Video: Check out my how-to video tutorial for making resin molds!

  1. After sanding the edges (yes, I sanded all of the edges), I mounted all of the eva foam pieces to foamcore and built box molds for them all. There are over 90 pieces.
  2. I applied a very thin layer of tinted Dragon Skin silicone to act as my release agent.
  3. Then I used Smooth-Cast 300 to create 1-part box molds for all of the pieces.
  4. After the molds cured, they were all washed with soap and water to remove all residue

Making the silicone pieces:

Materials used: Dragon Skin Silicone, Cast Magic Green, Pearly Green and Pearly Blue, Psycho Paint, Novocs, Black Silc-Pig, silicone thinner
Video: Check out my how-to video tutorial for using Dragon Skin Silicone and Cast Magic Metallic Powders for Hela’s costume!


  1. Once the resin molds were dry I mixed Dragon Skin silicone with measured amounts of Cast Magic Green, Pearly Green and Pearly Blue, making sure to annotate the ratios for duplication later.
  2. Next, I poured the silicone into the molds, being careful not to overfill the molds. (sorry I don’t have an image of this, as it’s difficult to take pictures while you are mixing and pouring silicone on a timer!)
  3. After the silicone cured (about 5 hours), I removed each piece from the molds.
  4. Then I trimmed each piece and painted the edges with Psycho Paint silicone paint tinted with Black Silc-Pig and thinned with Novocs solvent. I hand brushed each edge of each silicone piece with this mixture and allowed it to cure.

Adhering the silicone pieces to the suit:

Materials used: Sil-poxy, fabric pencil, disposable paint brushes, straight pins
Video Tutorial: Check out my How-To video tutorial on how to use Sil-Poxy to attach silicone to fabric!

  1. First I placed the suit back on the duct tape dummy. Then I placed each silicone piece on the suit and traced the outline with a fabric pencil using the heat transfer vinyl pattern to help with symmetry.
  2. Next I mixed a very small amount of black silc-pig with a small amount of Sil-Poxy with my disposable brush. Check out this video tutorial about how to use Sil-Poxy!
  3. After trying many methods of applying the silpoxy, I found that the best and cleanest way for my project was to apply a nice layer on the silicone, as well as a thin layer on the fabric. This makes sure the silicone will evenly adhere to both the silicone and the fabric.
  4. I used straight pins to keep the silicone pieces in place while it cured.
  5. Handle in 1 hour, fully cured in 24.

Attaching the boots

Materials used: Sil-poxy, fabric pencil, straight pins, Barge contact cement

  1. I tacked the edges of the suit down to the boots and tried it on. My friend to helped me indicate where the fabric lined up with the boot seam with a fabric pencil.
  2. I hemmed along that edge, tucking the zipper under and trimming the excess.
  3. I then used barge cement to attach the edges of the fabric to the boot.
  4. Then I added the silicone pieces to the boot area with Sil-poxy

Making the helmet base

Materials used: Duct tape, saran wrap, sharpie, 4mm and 2mm EVA foam from TNT Cosplay Supply, Barge Cement, Wonderflex, pvc pipe and connectors, magnets, Loctite 5 minute and 1 minute epoxy

  1. First I made a duct tape dummy of my head and transferred that pattern to 4mm eva foam.
  2. I cut out the foam and glued it together with barge cement
  3. Then I added a layer of Wonderflex to the back of the helmet to help with supporting the weight of the horns.
  4. I embedded several pvc pipe pieces into the base using epoxy and worbla.

Making the helmet horns

Materials used: 2mm, 4m eva foam, worbla, pvc pipe and connectors, magnets, Epsilon Pro, UVO colorant, Cast magic Green, Apoxie Sculpt, bondo, Loctite 5 minute and 1 minute epoxy
Equipment used: Adobe Illustrator, Dremel, Belt Sander, sandpaper, heat gun
Video: Here’s a video about how the helmet is assembled, as well as some information about Epsilon Pro!


  1. I traced the shape of the horns in illustrator and made a template
  2. Then I traced the shapes out of 4mm and 6mm eva foam from TNT Cosplay Supply
  3. I cut the core from the largest horns and wrapped it with worbla to help with rigidity.
  4. Then I removed material from the base of each horn to allow for a pvc pipe piece to be added.
  5. Next I glued pvc connectors to the back of the helmet, using more eva foam and worbla for support.
  6. I installed a few magnets to help keep the horns in place.
  7. Then I layered more eva foam to the ends of the horns and sanded them down to the contour of the helmet.
  8. It took a week of adjusting and trimming before I was done!
  9. I permanently attached the topmost horns, and made the rest of them detachable.
  10. I filled in large gaps and seams with Apoxie Sculpt and sanded it all down.
  11. Then I heat sealed all of the horns and the helmet with a heat gun

Painting the helmet and horns

Materials used: Epsilon Pro, UVO Black Colorant, Cast Magic Metallic Green

  1. I used Epsilon Pro to seal the eva foam.
  2. I applied two layers and then sanded it down.
  3. The next layer was tinted with Cast Magic Green and black UVO, but it was too green
  4. Another layer of black was applied, for a total of 4 layers of Epsilon Pro.
  5. Cure time = 16 hours.


    This slideshow requires JavaScript.